HANTEN Kimono - Retail Worker Jacket

This indigo-dyed hanten reflects the strong traditions of identity and craftsmanship in Edo- and Meiji-period Japan. Worn by merchants, artisans, or tradespeople, such jackets were both practical work garments and proud markers of affiliation. The bold, resist-dyed designs and kanji inscriptions allowed the wearer to be instantly recognized as belonging to a specific shop or guild.

Design & Symbolism

The jacket is dyed in deep natural indigo, with striking white tsutsugaki (freehand resist-dyed) inscriptions along the lapels reading 東高野商店 (Higashi Takano Shōten), identifying the merchant shop. The lower panels feature bold geometric motifs in rectangular forms, visually grounding the garment in strength and structure.

On the back, a large white crest encircled in a ring carries the character 武 (bu – martial strength, bravery). This was likely a shop emblem or trade symbol, conveying qualities of integrity, reliability, and endurance—virtues merchants wanted associated with their enterprise. A smaller red character 東 (higashi – east) further reinforces the name of the establishment.

Together, these design elements combined utility, branding, and a talismanic layer of meaning.

Merchant and worker jackets such as this served as uniforms in both the literal and symbolic sense. In an era before printed signage was common, garments bore the name of a shop or guild, acting as mobile advertisements. They also expressed group solidarity, particularly during festivals, processions, or commercial gatherings where coordinated attire enhanced visibility and reputation.

Indigo dye was favored not only for its durability but also for its association with protection and purification. Over time, the contrast of indigo ground with bold white resist motifs became a signature look of Japanese workwear.

Details

• Type: Hanten (merchant’s work jacket)

• Material: Handwoven cotton

• Techniques: Tsutsugaki (paste resist dyeing), indigo dyeing

• Motifs: Shop name (東高野商店), large crest with the character 武, geometric linear panels

• Era: Late Edo to Meiji period (19th century)