This striking antique hikeshi banten (fireman’s jacket) is a rare piece of 19th to early 20th century Japanese workwear history, originally worn by Edo-period and Meiji-period fire brigades. Crafted from densely handwoven indigo cotton, it is heavily reinforced with sashiko (刺し子) stitching—an intricate quilting method that gave the jacket both strength and fire resistance when soaked in water before battling blazes.
The jacket features bold katazome (型染め) stencil-dyed patterns in natural indigo, accented with intricate micro-dot motifs. The front displays subtle geometric panels, while the back proudly bears a large kamon (家紋, family or brigade crest) in rich red, framed within a circle. The crest’s powerful presence would have helped identify the fire brigade from afar.
Signs of wear—including surface fading, repairs, and areas of fabric loss—attest to its authentic working life and only enhance its wabi-sabi appeal. Each mark and stitch speaks to years of duty, resilience, and Japanese craftsmanship.
Today, hikeshi banten like this are highly sought after by collectors, museums, and textile enthusiasts for their cultural significance, rarity, and artistry. This piece is not only wearable history but also a visually stunning example of Japanese folk textile tradition.
Details
Origin: Japan, late 19th – early 20th century
Material: Handwoven indigo-dyed cotton
Technique: Sashiko quilting & katazome resist dyeing
Design: Large brigade crest (kamon) on the back, micro-dot patterns, geometric sashiko reinforcement
Condition: Authentic vintage wear, patina, and repairs consistent with age and use
Use: Firefighting garment, worn over padding and soaked in water to protect against flames
